Birria and cactus choices at Tacos Mexico

Don’t know why, but the word “authentic” is tied to Mexican cuisine like barnacles to a boat. You don’t hear much about authentic Korean food or authentic French fare. But Mexican without the attached “a” word is like fries without ketchup. I’m not even certain what authentic means, especially in a country that must boast a dozen regional cuisines.

Sure enough, Mestizo Taqueria uses “authentic” in describing the Mexican street food served in its Calgary restaurant in Kensington. But it then translates “mestizo” as a person of mixed European and Indigenous ancestry who, in this case, creates a fusion of flavours.

The family who owns the taqueria hails from Mexico City, which no doubt has its culinary peculiarities. But for me, “tastes great” trumps authenticity just about any day. And I must say, Mestizo boasts Calgary’s best tacos, which come in 19 styles, all served on corn tortillas.

One of many tacos (right) on offer at Mestizo Taqueria

My lengua (tongue) taco tastes much better than it sounds; the fried pork intestines will have to wait a braver day. My favourite taco is the suadero ($6.50), featuring slow-braised beef brisket, sauteed onions and a delightful, spicy arbol salsa.

Mestizo is down a 10^th Street alley, up a steep flight of stairs and in a little dining room, where customers are serenaded with festive Mexican music. Didn’t ask if it was authentic.

Mestizo is off a Kensington laneway

Mestizo Taqueria
124 10 Street NW and one Calgary food market
Monday to Wednesday 11:30 am-9 pm, Thursday to Saturday 11:30 am-10 pm. Closed
Sunday
825-365-8607

With a name of Tacos Mexico, it’s not surprising this popular southeast Calgary restaurant does Mexican street-style tacos two dozen ways. Allowing me to test standards, like birria and brisket, and new-to-me marinated cactus ($13 for four). All first-rate stuff, doused with hot sauce and cradled in double, corn tortillas.

Tacos Mexico is an adjust-your-eyes to the gloom spot along busy Macleod Trail Southeast. It doesn’t matter. The place is hopping at lunch, attracting, I’m guessing, local workers, many speaking Spanish.

The darkened interior doesn’t deter the faithful at Tacos Mexico

Tacos Mexico
3725 Memorial Drive SE
Opens 11 am Tuesday to Friday, noon on weekends. Closed Monday
403-457-6117

The days of $1 tacos at a rusty Mexican food truck, in the southwest U.S., are long gone. But I’ve found a way to partly turn back the clock, at Native Tongues Taqueria in Calgary’s Britannia neighbourhood.

It’s called happy hour. Between 2 and 4 pm weekdays, the Mexican restaurant offers its delightful tacos for 25 per cent off.

So on a quiet midday Thursday, I ordered a small meal of three tacos. One was a barria: braised beef in adobo sauce. Two a cochinita pibil: braised pork with achiote and pickled onions. Third, deep-fried haddock with chipotle mayo.

Happy-hour tacos at Native Tongues

Fabulous, messy stuff, with a cloth napkin to wipe up the spillage. All for the happy-hour price of $12.67.

Understated elegance at Native Tongues

Native Tongues Taqueria
829 49 Avenue SW and two other Calgary locations
Daiy 11:30 am-10 pm
403-454-8976