Calgary’s (By Far) Best Food Market

Rendezvous Korean is one of 40-plus food kiosks in this deep-south Calgary market

Fresh & Local Market + Kitchens, in deep-south Calgary, has four initial strikes against it.

  1. You guessed it. The unfortunate name, replacing the perfectly serviceable Avenida. The latter is what most people still call it.
  2. An odd south entrance
  3. Somewhat high prices
  4. A rabbit’s warren layout

An incongruous entrance

Still, it’s easily the best, most diverse major food market in Calgary, with more than 40 kiosk kitchens. Just about every ethnic base is covered: Korean, Ukrainian, Vietnamese, Venezuelan, El Salvadoran, Mexican, southeast Asian; the list goes on.

Located at 12445 Lake Fraser Drive SE, the market opens at 11 am Thursday to Sunday

A sprawling food court

Let’s start with the eclectic Krooked Provisions, an outstanding wife-husband, Red Seal chef operation, showcasing their imaginative takes on pirogies, Reuben sandwiches (house-made sauerkraut), four-cheese mac ’n cheese and a Mennonite sausage doused in a pineapple-ginger-sauerkraut salsa.

Krooked Provisions’ award-winning mac n cheese

Next door, The J Spot has closed, replaced by another hand-made burger joint, Muy Bueno. Strech your culinary wings and try the smoky rib burger.

Muy Bueno is a new burger joint

Mestizo Taqueria boasts perhaps Calgary’s most diverse taco roster, ranging from slow-braised beef brisket to fried pork intestines—all served on corn tortillas. It’s also worth ordering a gordita, in which fried corn dough is stuffed with grilled meats and pork rinds.

Is there a more evocatively named Calgary restaurant dish than Crack & Cauliflower? Didn’t think so. It’s the arranged marriage of two best sellers—crispy pork belly and tiger cauliflower—at Expat Asia.

Expat Asia is a father-son operation

It’s just one of the innovative recipes arising from the fertile minds of father and son co-owners Jeff and Joel Matthews, who bring decades working as chefs in Jordan, Bali, Singapore and Australia to their kiosk.

Arepa Ranch is a family-owned business that celebrates its Venezuelan heritage with cornmeal patties, or arepas, stuffed with my choice of pulled pork, melted cheese and garlic sauce. At less than $14, this hefty meal is one of the best lunch deals at the market.

They’re may be cheaper banh mis in Calgary. But I doubt there are any better than the massive Vietnamese subs that Bee the Banhmi pumps out from a tiny kitchen. My choice contains a boatload of fresh grilled chicken, a bargain two-mealer at $16. Bee also draws crowds for its high-end, massive bowls of pho (think oxtails or brisket) and Vietnamese coffees.

The most bountiful banh mis in Calgary?

Que Chivo celebrates Salvadoran street food. Leading the way are pupusas—El Salvador’s signature dish—hand-made corn tortillas stuffed with various fillings and grilled. Also on offer are tamales, empanadas and tacos, incorporating ingredients such as plantains and yuca.

Mexquisite focuses on fine Mexican tortas (sandwiches), using recipes that owner Jorge has brought from his home in Mexico City. Try the Mixiote torta, featuring slow-marinated shredded beef in chile sauce, stuffed into an authentic telera bun.

Mexquisite’s magnificent tortas

Nan’s Noodle House  is a plant-based Asian kitchen with an impressive menu. It boasts eight forms of noodles with broth, such as black garlic ramen and ginger scallion pho, and half a dozen noodle dishes without broth. Head chef Brandon Bauzon likes to frequently fiddle with the menu, recently adding dishes like Taiwanese “beef” noodle soup and mapo tofu.

Nan’s Noodle House

Rendezvous Korean Cuisine is a wee kiosk serving all manner of unfamiliar dishes like jjam and japchae. But I’m here for the gamjatang ($18), a pork neck bone simmered for several hours in a spicy broth until the meat is ready to fall off the bone. Kind of a Korean version of oxtail soup.

These aren’t your parents’ steakhouse baked potatoes. In I’m Stuffed owner Sarah Lewoniuk’s inventive hands, they’re twice-baked spuds with toppings like bacon-wrapped jalapeños or stuffed mushroom caps, along with melted cheese, crispy onions and a side of  jalapeño slaw.

I’m Stuffed owner/chef Sarah Lewoniuk

A “Bizarre” Wagyu Burger

Delectable Wagyu cheese burger at Bizarre Gastro Pub

Wagyu beef is usually way out of my price range. But when I see a marbled, oh-so-tender Japanese Wagyu cheese burger at Bizarre Gastro Pub for just $14.99, I’ve got to check it out.

It’s a hell-of-a-lunch special, down from the regular $23.75, and includes a wire basket of hot fries. The Wagyu beef certainly delivers—a melt-in-your-mouth patty, topped by caramelized onion, smoked cheddar, house pickle coins and Bizarre sauce, in a soft potato bun. Actually, with a patty this good, you might want to cut back on potentially distracting toppings.

A funky gastro pub

Started by two buddies in 2024, Bizarre is an evocatively named Ramsay pub, featuring smoky cocktails, a fusion food menu and a colourful interior.

Bizarre Gastro Pub
2016 Spiller Road SE, Calgary
Opens 11 am daily except 4 pm Sunday
825-509-5777

Small Bar Burger is a Smash Hit

Small Bar Bridgeland

In a crowded Calgary burger market, it makes sense to focus on the wildly popular smash burger trend—involving flattened patties with crispy exteriors and juicy interiors. But success ultimately relies on quality ingredients and stellar execution.

And that’s where the newish Small Bar Bridgeland nails it. Its double cheeseburger features two dry-aged beef patties, American cheese, mac sauce and a potato bun that, critically, doesn’t fall apart.

Fabulous double smash burger

At $22 for a double burger and plentiful crinkle fries, it ain’t cheap. But I’m guessing it’s one of the best smash burgers in the city. While you’re at it, might as well spend $4 extra on an excellent, unusual Bushmills peppercorn gravy.

Small Bar is a comfy but funky Bridgeland spot with an extensive list of local craft beers and wines. Its owned by the same folks who operate the splendid Blue Star Diner next door.

Lovely Bridgeland patio

Small Bar Bridgeland
813 1 Avenue NE, Calgary
Opens weekdays at noon, 11 am weekends
403-454-5808

This Smash Burger is Spot On

This Spot On burger is a smashing sucess

I usually balk at a $20 burger. And if it’s $23.50, forget it, even with some nice fries.

But a happy-hour (Thursday 2-5 pm) deal that knocks $5 off the price is enough to get me in the door of Spot On Kitchen & Bar, next door to Mount Royal University in southwest Calgary.

Spot On Kitchen & Bar is next door to Calgary’s Moount Royal University

I’m here to try the celebrated Super Dave (the cook, not the stuntman) smash burger: two hefty AAA Alberta beef patties loaded with cheese, grilled onion and mushrooms into a valiant brioche bun.

It’s a large, messy, juicy affair; one of the best smash burgers I’ve devoured. Paired with a basket of hot of kennebec-potato fries, this smash burger was well worth the $18.50 cost.

Spot On Kitchen & Bar
2 Richard Way SW, Calgary
Opens daily at 11 am
403-240-3619

My New Favourite Calgary Bakery

The Beltline’s Beautiful Begonia Bakehouse

Two days earlier, I’d never heard of the place. But here I am at Begonia Bakehouse on a Sunday mid-morning, and there’s a line of young Beltliners stretching to the door.

Some are here for a Monogram-roasted coffee. But they’re all picking up delectable pastries—twice-baked croissants, egg brioche, kouign-amann—and loaves of naturally leavened sourdough bread.

A sweet treat

Indeed, Begonia is one of a handful of Calgary bakeries producing both high-end pastries and artisan breads. Owner and SAIT graduate Elizabeth Reimer opened this little bakeshop in 2023 and is constantly introducing new creations such as a pastry apparently containing apples from her mother’s yard.

I manage to score the last loaf of sprouted sourdough; no such luck with the cherry pistachio sourdough. But I do claim a wee table to devour a sublime almond croissant and a “Canadiano”.

A delectable hazelnut fig loaf

Looks like I’ll have to show up earlier for future visits.

Followup: A week later, I’m there at 9 am and able to score a delightfully chewy hazelnut fig loaf ($8, available Saturday only), a decadent pain Suisse ($5.25) and, what the heck, a substantial made-to-order turkey sandwich to go, a $9 bargain. And the busy staff are so friendly!

A made-to-order turkey sandwich

After only two visits, Begonia is my new, favourite Calgary bakery.

Begonia Bakehouse
1502 14 Street SW, Calgary
Wednesday to Saturday 8 am-3 pm, Sunday 8 am-2 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday
587-355-7768

Calgary Coffee Circuit

Vintage Caffeine the latest coffee shop in Hillhurst

Calgary has its Barley Belt, a collection of craft breweries in the city’s southeast. Perhaps it’s time to declare a similar coffee circuit.

Quietly and quite recently, four coffee shops have opened along a few blocks of 19th Street in the northwest neighbourhood of Hillhurst. Here’s a brief description of each.

I invariably take my coffee black, typically an Americano/Canadiano. But in the interests of research, I’m willing to add some white liquid to the mix.

At vegan Vintage Caffeine, (101 19 Street NW) that means the dairy-free “milk” is instead oat, soy or almond. I’m not ready to switch to white, but my oat milk cappuccino (Fratello beans) tastes pretty darn good, paired with a house-made chipotle empanada.

Vintage has gone vegan

Now here’s a true partnership. The aptly named Pocket Coffee (317 19 Street SW) is owned by attached Dairy Lane Café, with roasted beans from Fratello and baked treats from superb Butter Block. Be bold and tackle a French toast latte and double-baked apple croissant on the sidewalk patio.

Pocket Coffee

Crave Cupcakes has expanded its mini empire with a new Hillhurst bakery that includes an attached coffee shop, CeCe’s Coffee (114 18 A Street). Order a Monogram-based java with a fresh-baked cupcake or savoury cheddar scone.

Cupcakes and coffee