Category Archives: British Columbia

Charming Kootenay, B.C. Communities of Nelson and Rossland

In honour of Thör’s final Kootenay road trip

In honour of Thör’s final Kootenay road trip

Nelson is one of the most charming small cities in western Canada with its historic downtown buildings (a legacy of previous mining and logging booms) and steep streets plunging from enveloping forest past colourful two-storey houses to the west arm of Kootenay Lake. And ah, yes, there’s the enduring hippy culture, from the excellent Kootenay Co-op (where you can get organic dishes or picnic supplies to go) to the long-haired stoners wandering through town. With its rich arts culture, it’s not hard to find a number of good places in the compact downtown to eat, sip coffee and watch the fascinating world go by.

Lush, colourful Nelson, B.C.

Lush, colourful Nelson, B.C.

For those wishing to spice up their breath, The Outer Clove boasts every type of garlicky dish imaginable, though the pungent flavour is toned down somewhat from the cooking. There are several garlic pasta and chicken dishes, but I can never get past the Yum burger, a garlic-infused and incredibly moist patty accompanied by crispy sweet potato wedges. A vegetarian companion thoroughly enjoyed the Portobello mushroom burger, stuffed with roasted peppers. And of course, there’s the palate-cleansing finale of garlic chocolate cookies.

All things garlic at The Outer Clove

All things garlic at The Outer Clove

Garlic-infused Yum burger and sweet potato fries at The Outer Clove

Garlic-infused Yum burger and sweet potato fries at The Outer Clove

The Outer Clove
536 Stanley Street
Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday
The Outer Clove on Urbanspoon

The Full Circle Café is Nelson’s go-to breakfast joint, if you don’t mind paying a little more for first-class fare. I launch my morning with the Kick Hash ($13), a scrumptious mix of scrambled eggs, buffalo sausage, bacon, banana peppers and melted mozzarella, topped with chipotle hollandaise sauce and served with potatoes and rye bread. My companion’s Nanny Bennies ($12) features goat cheese and a lovely topping of caramelized onions. Unfortunately, we aren’t around for the weekend special of two eggs, a half rack of slow-smoked baby back ribs, pan fries and cornbread, all for a bargain $13. The restaurant is also now smoking much of the chicken breast, brisket and pork shoulder found in its sandwiches.

Lovely Kick Hash at Full Circle Cafe

Lovely Kick Hash at Full Circle Cafe

Full Circle Cafe
101, 402 Baker Street
Monday to Saturday 6:30 am-2:30 pm, Sunday 7 am-2 pm
Full Circle Cafe on Urbanspoon

At Oso Negro Café, the swift-moving lineup goes out the door most mornings at this elegant, brightly lit café. Trendy, yes, but a great place to nurse a java while reading the paper or perusing the Internet. While Oso Negro beans can be found in stores throughout B.C., Alberta and a few points east, the espressos and brewed drinks seem to taste freshest here, a few blocks from the company’s home roasting base. The breakfast offerings are mostly limited to egg sandwiches and fresh-baked muffins.

Oso Negro Cafe is a happening morning place

Oso Negro Cafe is a happening morning place

Oso Negro Cafe
604 Ward Street
Monday to Saturday 7 am-6 pm, Sunday 8 am-4 pm
Oso Negro Coffee on Urbanspoon

Note: The rest of this post is courtesy of my friends Nancy and Dennis Stefani, frequent visitors to the Kootenays. Here’s their favourite places for coffee and breakfast snacks in Nelson and Rossland, an hour’s drive away.

If you’re looking for awesome, homemade muffins in Nelson, we recommend the Dominion Café. Although they specialize in raw foods, their traditionally baked muffins are an exquisite treat, especially our favourite—orange, espresso and chocolate. Dominion also offers espresso drinks and teas.

Dominion Cafe
334 Baker Street
Monday to Saturday breakfast and lunch
Dominion Cafe on Urbanspoon

Another Nelson discovery is Bean Here Now Consciousness Cafe, a unique espresso vendor. Owner Mitch Kushner operates from a mobile trailer, currently located in the old Extra Foods parking lot (corner of Hendryx and Vernon Streets). He calls his fair trade beans feral! The beans are grown and hand picked in the northern coastal mountains of Mexico. Mitch says the single-origin Capulin coffee beans are 100-per-cent sun dried, rather than water bathed, as is the case with the mass-produced commercial process, which de-natures coffee. Monday to Friday 8 am-5 pm, Saturday 10:30 am-5 pm.

Bean Here Now Consciousness Cafe offers feral coffee

Bean Here Now Consciousness Cafe offers feral coffee

The “Red Mountain” ski town of Rossland—home of gold-medal Olympian Nancy Greene Raine— is where you’ll find Alpine Grind Coffee House & Microbakery. The name may refer to the many gnarly mountain bike trails in the area (check out the Seven Summits Alpine Ridge trail ride), or the incredibly steep highway, a 600-metre elevation gain over the nine kilometres from Trail to Rossland. Or maybe it just refers to the more obvious espresso-based drinks.

House-made granola on the patio at Alpine Grind Coffee House & Microbakery in Rossland, B.C.

House-made granola on the patio at Alpine Grind Coffee House & Microbakery in Rossland, B.C.

Alpine Grind provides a friendly atmosphere to savour its various menu offerings: homemade granola, breakfast frittatas, unique cinnamon buns, robust muffins, delicious soups, made-to-order sandwiches, hot entrees and a variety of desserts. Owner John Snelgrove is a coffee aficionado, and his shop is one of the few places in the Kootenays that does latte art.

Unique cinnamon buns at Alpine Grind Coffee House

Unique cinnamon buns at Alpine Grind Coffee House

Alpine Grind Coffee House & Microbakery
2207 Columbia Avenue, Rossland
Weekdays 7 am-5 pm, weekends 8 am-4 pm
Alpine Grind on Urbanspoon

Calgary and Area Bargain Eats: Part 2

A ceremony of white hats at the SAIT Culinary Campus in downtown Calgary

A ceremony of white hats at the SAIT Culinary Campus in downtown Calgary

The bargain eats in Calgary keep coming. Here’s a second list of good city places to eat at for less than $10. Enjoy the delicious savings. I’m actually starting with an outstanding spot just outside the city, in Bragg Creek. And at the bottom of this post, reader Lynn Martel shares a favourite road dining experience in Terrace, way up in northwest British Columbia.

If you’re heading southwest of Calgary for a hike or bike near Bragg Creek, be sure to stop at *Creekers. My new go-to spot in the hamlet, it’s a deli/market/bistro where the food is both delicious and, for now, inexpensive. At breakfast, owner John Czarnojan whips me up an outstanding, steaming omelette stuffed with Valbella ham and portabella mushrooms and accompanied by crispy hash browns and nice toast ($10). Lunch features include an Italian flat bread Reuben ($7) and my choice of a fire-roasted turkey meatball and provolone cheese sandwich ($8) on a perfectly toasted ciabatta bun; both come with a scoop of potato salad. But the best deals are at supper. Where else can you get a half, oven-roasted chicken dinner—with yam mash, veggies and corn bread—for $12, sesame-crusted salmon for $13 or a Friday night prime rib dinner with Yorkshire pudding for $16? Not surprisingly, you have to arrive early for the latter, which quickly runs out.

An outstanding omelette at Creekers in Bragg Creek

An outstanding omelette at Creekers in Bragg Creek

Creekers
20 White Avenue (second entrance to Bragg Creek if arriving from Highway 22 North)
Daily from 8 am
Creekers Deli & Bistro on Urbanspoon

It’s 11:30 am midweek, and I’m driving in circles trying to find an obscure spot in an office park near Deerfoot Trail in northeast Calgary. So imagine my surprise when I enter Scarpone’s Italian Store Café and find a lineup of people waiting to order. The reason is simple. Most Italian fare, I find, is fairly pricy, but this place is cheap. Dirt cheap. How about $4 for a large, thick rectangle of pizza, $7 for a slab of lasagna or $4 for a big bowl of soup laden with chicken? At $8, my calzone-like panzarotti is a substantial meal, with slices of Italian meat and cheese in a tomato sauce, all tucked inside a slightly too-doughy pastry. While not gourmet Italian food—it’s cafeteria style, with many items kept warm in fast-emptying steamer trays—it’s good quality, it’s efficient and (did I mention?), it’s cheap. The bargain prices are a reflection of the family Scarpone business, which produces a wide variety of Italian foodstuffs next door. The Salumeria Groceria, attached to the café, is a great place to stock up on cans of tomatoes, olive oils, cheeses and the like, at much lower prices than most Italian groceries in the city.

Great Italian grocery and meal deals at Scarpone's, Calgary

Great Italian grocery and meal deals at Scarpone’s, Calgary

Scarpone’s Italian Store Café
5130 Skyline Way NE, Calgary
Monday to Saturday 9 am-5 pm

It’s not often I want an apprentice preparing my lunch. But at The Market at the Culinary Campus in a downtown Calgary office tower, it’s students in SAIT Polytechnic’s highly regarded professional cooking program producing the meals. Albeit, it’s under the watchful eye of flinty instructors; in my case, said supervisor even shows the callow cook how to load and slice the sandwich. Opened last September, the cafeteria is a gleaming, open space, with hanging cookware worthy of a big-hotel kitchen. You line up at different stations and order one of the day’s two featured items—such as tempura fish or Thai curry chicken (Braise station) Thai pork curry (Saute) or a prime rib sandwich (Rotisserie); the average price for any main is $8.50. My sandwich is a soft, fresh roll filled with a succulent orange-sesame pork belly, though the crackling is a little hard on my teeth. The market is a grab-and-go place, with most customers carrying plastic boxes to a scattering of mezzanine tables or upstairs offices. The servings aren’t as big as at the Sunterra Markets. But it’s good, quick food at reasonable prices for the heart of downtown Calgary.

The Market at the Culinary Campus
226, 230 8 Avenue SW (Stephen Avenue Mall), Calgary
Monday to Friday 8 am-4 pm (hot lunch 11 am-1 pm)
SAIT Culinary Campus on Urbanspoon

Walk into KOOB, and it’s tempting to think you’re in one of those generic, assembly-line sandwich places; the sub-title “The Kabob Factory” probably doesn’t help. That’s because there’s a couple of guys behind a glassed counter asking a moving line of customers what toppings, from a dozen containers, they want added to their “koobwiches” ($7 to $8.50 for a substantial single). The difference here is the quality of those toppings, mostly house made and piled aboard a large pita. They include hummus, basil tomatoes, a fine corn and bean salsa, onions sprinkled with sumac and a nice red-and-green cabbage slaw. The showstopper is the kebabs—individual skewers of tender beef, chicken, lamb (my choice) or veggies—drippingly grilled over a flame and placed atop all the “toppings”. The last choice is picking a squeezed, hand-crafted sauce or two (say, a smoked chipotle or lemon dill garlic) and then watching the wrapped beast seared in a panini press. Because there’s only one table in this tiny, unadorned place, the final task is dashing to your car and scarfing down this juicy, tasty meal while it’s still warm.

I have to devour this delicious KOOB sandwich in my car

I have to devour this delicious KOOB sandwich in my car

KOOB
5, 2015 4 Street SW, Calgary
Monday to Saturday 11 am-11 pm, Sunday noon-8 pm
Koob The Kabob Factory on Urbanspoon

How’s this for devotion? An Edmonton restaurant worker tells me he hopped on his motorcycle one day, rode 300 kilometres to Calgary for a Tubby Dog and then promptly headed home. My odyssey is only a few clicks to traffic-choked 17th Avenue SW, where I join a short line of aficionados in the delightfully shabby, retro joint, decked out in bold red and yellow colours, with Tubby posters on one wall and video games and a pinball machine along another. So why the cult following, especially for those seeking a post-midnight tube steak fix? It starts with good dogs, steamed and then grilled and plopped into fresh buns. But what puts Tubby’s over the top is the generous, creative toppings—ranging from mounds of cheese, bacon and potato chips in the signature A-Bomb to peanut butter, jelly and Cap’n Crunch cereal (yikes!) in the Cap’ns Dog. My Sumo features a refreshing mix of crunchy seaweed, pickled ginger and mild wasabi; the heat could be kicked up a notch. Nearly all the dogs are $7, so throw in a half order of yam fries and you’ve got a satisfying, distinctive meal for just over nine bucks. On Tuesdays after 8 pm, Tubby turns to exclusively tacos and tostados, at bargain prices.

Honest, there's a dog under all those Japanese toppings at Tubby's

Honest, there’s a dog under all those Japanese toppings at Tubby’s

Tubby Dog
1022 17 Avenue SW
Sunday to Thursday 11:30 am till late, Friday-Saturday 11:30 am-1 am, with window service till 4 am. Cash only
Tubby Dog on Urbanspoon

A lot of active outdoor folks who pass through Calgary make a pilgrimage to the city’s Mountain Equipment Co-op outlet, near downtown, to pick up affordable outdoor clothing and gear. To fuel up for the day’s hike or mountain bike ride, head straight across the street to the bustling Holy Grill for breakfast—try the bacon avocado crisp, featuring a fried egg—or a lunch panini (the bountiful Mr. Chicken also includes bacon) or double burger. Just about everything on the lunch menu is around $8, though a near-mandatory $4 side order of beet chips will put you over $10.

Tasty breakfast panini at Holy Grill, but what's with the insipid tomatoes?

Tasty breakfast panini at Holy Grill, but what’s with the insipid tomatoes?

Holy Grill
827 10 Avenue SW
Monday to Friday 7:30 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Closed Sunday
Holy Grill on Urbanspoon

Don’t go to Puspa if you’re seeking ambience or trendy dining. Located in a nondescript brick strip mall in northwest Calgary, the Indian restaurant is dim and rosy-hued inside and appears untouched since the two Datta brothers opened it 20 years ago. But that means the focus is squarely on the food. As a result, you’re getting some delicious Bengal-style meal deals, especially from the short lunch menu (a nearby couple say they’ve been regulars for 15 years, and it’s always good). My chicken curry thali has big chunks of tender chicken breast in a nicely spiced sauce. Served on a compartmentalized steel plate (hence the term thali), it comes with hot, soft slices of naan bread, saffron rice, and an undistinguished salad—all for $9, including a rice pudding. I think I can forego ambience for that kind of value.

Good Bengali thali at Puspa Restaurant in Calgary

Good Bengali thali at Puspa Restaurant in Calgary

Puspa Restaurant
1051 40 Avenue NW, Calgary
Lunch Monday to Friday 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner Monday to Saturday 5 pm-9:30 pm. Closed Sunday
Puspa on Urbanspoon

Now for a recommendation from Lynn Martel of Golden, British Columbia:

Haryana’s Indian (of the eastern variety) restaurant in Terrace, B.C. is in a roadside motel on the edge of town and the service is unforgettably slow, but TOTALLY worth the wait because every delectable morsel is made from scratch. The guys who work for highway avalanche control reportedly call in their order from the helipad, go home, shower, have a beer, then go to the restaurant and order another beer before their food comes. Legend is that the genius in the kitchen is someone’s grandmother, she speaks no English, but she is a virtuoso of Indian food. All dining should be this relaxed, and this good. Exquisite, nondescript hole in the wall.

Haryana’s Restaurant
5522 Highway 16 West, Terrace, B.C.

Got a Calgary bargain gem I’ve missesd? Want to share a great road-trip dining experience, even if it’s not in western U.S./Canada? Send it to me at info@billcorbett.ca and I’ll try to post it.

My Best Road Trip Meals of 2012: Part Two

Marathon Mouth chomps down on salmon tacone at Go Fish, Vancouver B.C.

Marathon Mouth chomps down on salmon tacone at Go Fish, Vancouver B.C.

It’s a bit late, but I realize I overlooked a number of categories in my Best Road Trip Meals of 2012 awards and figured I didn’t want to wait perhaps months to post reviews of some stellar places. So here we go with Part Two.

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My Best Road Trip Meals of 2012

Billings and Red Lodge, Montana 6800 (1)

Casually elegant Restaurant 415 in Fort Collins, Colorado

Best Supper

There are times on a long road trip when you want to wipe off the grime, comb your hair and go out for a nice dinner—the kind where the chefs have trained in high-end restaurants and where the utensils have some heft and are wrapped in linen, not paper. And you want to do so without breaking the bank. Restaurant 415 in Fort Collins, Colorado delivers all that, in spades. The retro-modern dining space is elegant but relaxed, with subdued lighting on the brushed aluminum tables and the stylish chairs, which have leatherette seat cushions and slightly springy wooden backs.

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