Category Archives: Washington

Fried Oysters Worth the Long Drive

These smouldering fried oysters, in South Bend Washington, are pockets of heaven

These smouldering fried oysters, in South Bend Washington, are pockets of heaven

A New York Times food critic has written it’s worth the two-hour-plus drive southwest from Seattle to Chester Club & Oyster Bar, in South Bend, Washington for “what might be the best fried oysters in the country.” They’d better be, as I’ve spontaneously decided to backtrack an hour to where I was the day before just to order a basket of six oysters and fries, the $8 bill probably less than the extra gas to get here. Things are looking a mite sketchy as I enter the dimly lit bar, adorned with two big pool tables at the front and a swinging half-door into the men’s room at the back. As well, these are deep-fried oysters, though the oil is frequently changed and not strained, to avoid a greasy taste.

All my doubts are instantly forgotten with the first bite into these lightly breaded, smouldering pockets of milky heaven. Strange as it sounds, they taste almost raw and so good I dare not sully them with tartar sauce or a squeeze of lemon. The Willapa Bay, outside the bar’s window, is the oyster capital of the west coast, producing one-sixth of the nation’s harvest. But consumers elsewhere sure ain’t getting them this fresh.

Chester Club & Oyster Bar
1005 West Robert Bush Drive (US 101), South Bend, Washington
Daily 10 am-11 pm
Chester Tavern on Urbanspoon

Mexican Madness in Tacoma, Washington

Fabulous red-chile pork tamales at Vuelva a la Vida in Tacoma, Washington

Fabulous red-chile pork tamales at Vuelva a la Vida in Tacoma, Washington

From a culinary perspective, Tacoma, Washington might conjure up the usual west-coast images of oysters, crab, salmon. But a mini-Mexican hotbed? Who’d have thunk it? Yet when you get east of the city centre, there are a few places that define Mexican authentic: streetfood, casual, inexpensive, friendly. My kind of joints.

Leading the way is Vuelve a la Vida, which translates as “come back to life.” Here, that means returning to Mexican roots, with no Americanized chips and salsa. My asada (steak) taco, served on a corn tortilla with whole beans, is very good. But the standout is the smoking hot tamales, the masa dough enveloping a rich filling of red chile pork. Seriously, you only need two of these bad boys for a filling, $5 lunch.

None of that Americanized chips and salsa at Vuelva a la Vida

None of that Americanized chips and salsa at Vuelva a la Vida

But my server, Juana, is not done with me, bringing over complimentary samples of Mexican drinks—horchata and jamaica—along with a little plate of shrimp ceviche. Any minute, I’m expecting to be introduced to the family.

Vuelve a la Vida
5310 Pacific Way, Tacoma
Weekdays 10:30 am-10 pm, weekends 10 am-10 pm
Vuelve a la Vida on Urbanspoon

About a mile away, Taqueria La Fondita is a food truck that pulls into a gravel parking lot every morning, with smoke soon belching from the tiny kitchen. A steady stream of neighbourhood youth saunters up to the window, ordering junior burritos to go.

The Taqueria La Fondita truck in a Tacoma parking lot

The Taqueria La Fondita truck in a Tacoma parking lot

I choose a more substantial torta, handing the included Sprite to a surprised kid. The bread isn’t as substantial as some tortas I’ve had, but the tender chicken filling melds nicely with slices of avocado to create a fine, gooey mess, kicked up a notch with some flavourful green chile sauce.

It's all gooey goodness in this chicken torts

It’s all gooey goodness in this chicken torta

Taqueria La Fondita
3737 South G Street, Tacoma
Daily 11 am-10 pm
La Fondita Taco Truck on Urbanspoon

Diving Into a Seattle Character Bar

It's shoulder-to-shoulder cozy in Seattle's Pacific Inn Pub

It’s shoulder-to-shoulder cozy in Seattle’s Pacific Inn Pub

The Pacific Inn Pub has been called a dive bar. I consider it merely comfortable, with a low stucco ceiling and comfy blue vinyl booths and counter stools. Rubbing shoulders with regulars at the counter offers me a good vantage point for keeping an eye on the ball games, while watching a friendly, efficient server pour pints and relay food orders to the cook at the end of the bar. It’s evidence that a small, well-run joint with a simple menu can be run by just two people.

I order a Mac and Jack’s amber ale and a two-piece order of fish and chips, the thin slices of cod lightly breaded and crispy, the mountain of fries hot and crunchy. If this is a dive bar, I’m ready to dive in.

The cod fish and chips are thin, crispy and tasty

The cod fish and chips are thin, crispy and tasty

Pacific Inn Pub
3501 Stone Way North, Seattle
Daily 11 am-2 am
Pacific Inn Pub on Urbanspoon

Dining on Pizza at Seattle’s Delancey

It's cozy by the hearth in Seattle's Delancey

It’s cozy by the hearth in Seattle’s Delancey

As usual, I’ve grabbed a front-row seat at a pizza joint, this time the heralded Delancey, a casual, friendly spot in Seattle’s trendy Ballard district. I get to watch smoke curling from the brick, wood-fired oven as thin, sparingly adorned pizzas are carefully lifted out with a long-handled paddle. I also get to see passing starters I wish I’d ordered: gorgeous mounds of romaine, red cabbage and shaved-grana salads or small plates of local tomatoes with sheep milk’s feta and preserved Meyer lemons.

The toppings are simple but fresh in this bacon, mozza and argula pizza

The toppings are simple but fresh in this bacon, mozza and argula pizza

But I’ve saved myself for a Zoe’s bacon and onion pie, with fresh and aged mozza and scattered arugula. It’s simple, and simply delicious, with most of the ingredients locally sourced. All the pizzas are reasonably priced, ranging from $12 to $15 for a pie that can easily be shared by two.

Delancey
1415 NW 70 Street, Seattle
Wednesday to Saturday 5 pm-10 pm, Sunday 5 pm-9 pm. Closed Monday and Tuesday
Delancey on Urbanspoon

Now This is a Serious Biscuit

Think there's a few calories in this delectable chicken and biscuit and gravy.... and bacon and egg at Seattle's Serious Biscuit?

Think there’s a few calories in this delectable chicken and biscuit and gravy…. and bacon and egger at Seattle’s Serious Biscuit?

Serious Biscuit, in central Seattle, is a simple concept, done well and with almost industrial efficiency (delicious, mind you). It’s just house-made buttermilk biscuits, topped with your choice of everything from fried green tomatoes or catfish to ham hock and collards.

But, really, you have to order the fried chicken—the buttermilk-dredged skin is wonderfully crispy—smothered in Tabasco black pepper gravy ($9). It’s a fine, filling  morning  wakeup, delivered in minutes and devoured almost as fast at one of the few, small, high tables. For a couple of extra bucks, you can add bacon and egg to the caloric load.

Serious Biscuit is part of the Tom Douglas dining empire, scattered throughout Seattle. The sister Serious Pie is just up the stairs; check out the $6 happy-hour pizzas on weekdays. The production bakery for all the famed chef’s restaurants is in the back.

Serious Biscuit
401 Westlake Avenue North, Seattle
Weekdays 7 am-3 pm, weekends 9 am-3 pm
Serious Biscuit on Urbanspoon

Satisfying Southeast Asian Cuisine in Seattle

Bottoms up! Charlie about to embrace a "stinky" Durian shake at Phnom Penh in Seattle

Bottoms up! Charlie about to embrace a “stinky” Durian shake at Phnom Penh in Seattle

When you’re road-trip dining, it helps to be open to surprises that can lead to some great culinary discoveries. So, when a friend takes me to a Seattle food truck festival in the city’s International District, the crowds are so thick, we’re happy to follow a friend of his to Phnom Penh Noodle House.

I’m thus introduced to Cambodian cuisine and such wonderfully exotic dishes as crispy shrimp rolls, garlic-marinated steak wok tossed with whisky and a bowl of endlessly long sate noodles. My friend orders a yellow durian fruit shake despite warnings that it tastes musky; instead, it’s quite delightful.

Think you've tried it all? How about crispy shrimp rolls in a bean wrap?

Think you’ve tried it all? How about crispy shrimp rolls in a bean wrap?

All these recipes have been passed down through three generations of owner Sam Ung’s family, who emigrated to the U.S. in 1980 after fleeing the Khmer Rouge regime. The restaurant’s Cambodian heritage is also evident in plenty of bamboo, metal figurines and paintings.

Or garlic-marinated steak tossed with whisky?

Or garlic-marinated steak tossed with whisky?

Phnom Penh Noodle House
660 South King Street, Seattle
Monday, Tuesday and Thursday 9 am-8 pm, Friday 9 am-8:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 8:30 am-8 pm. Closed Wednesday
Phnom Penh Noodle House on Urbanspoon

Want a satisfying, filling lunch for $3, within the shadow of downtown Seattle’s office towers? Just head over to Saigon Deli, one of the best banh mi shops in town.

Banh mi is a Vietnamese-style sub, a foot-long, fresh roll that’s stuffed, in my case, with barbecued pork, slivered carrots and peppers, onions, cilantro and a slightly spicy mayo sauce. It adds up to a hearty, delicious sandwich for no more than the change in my pocket.

Can you believe it? A foot-long, yummy Vietnamese sub, near downtown Seattle, for only $3

Can you believe it? A foot-long, yummy Vietnamese sub, near downtown Seattle, for only $3

Saigon Deli
1237 South Jackson Street
Daily 7 am-6 pm
Saigon Deli on Urbanspoon