Category Archives: Calgary

A Rare, Medium-rare Burger at Calgary’s National

Juicy, medium-rare burger at National in Calgary

Juicy, medium-rare burger and a side arugula-pear salad at National in Calgary

Here are seven words I wasn’t expecting to hear in a Canadian restaurant: “How would you like your burger cooked?”

You see, burgers up north are generally cooked till the critter is well and truly dead, devoid of the flowing juices one expects of another cattle product, namely a steak. It’s something to do with health regulations and fears of nasty e coli outbreaks.

Truly, I understand being on the safe side. But that hasn’t stopped many U.S. restaurants from offering flavourful medium-rare pucks, without accompanying trips to emergency.

Apparently, a way around these Canadian regulations is to freshly grind the meat in house and scrupulously clean the equipment used to do so. This allows National, a restaurant/pub with three locations in Calgary, to grind its chuck steak into burger meat and ask customers how they want it cooked.

I’d heard The National could be hit-and-miss about producing medium-rare burgers. But mine is perfectly tinged pink in the middle and all the more succulent for it. I add some American cheese and a runny egg, but really, this is a burger on a brioche bun that doesn’t need dolling up.

As if a medium-rare burger wasn't juicy enough, I added a runny egg

As if a medium-rare burger wasn’t juicy enough, I added a runny egg

You can get your burger with a side of what I’m sure are perfectly good fries. But just go for a sizable bowl of excellent salad, whether it’s arugula, pear and walnut or quinoa and bacon. If a burger’s not your thing, the open-faced short rib and oxtail ragu sandwich is also first rate.

The short rib and oxtail ragu is a good choice, too

The short rib and oxtail ragu with a quinoa-bacon salad is a good choice, too

National has an impressive 60 beers on tap, though at a rather pricy $8.50 a 20-ounce pint ($5 during weekday happy hour, 3-5 pm). But hey, this is Calgary, so the $15 tab for an unadorned burger is not surprising. And maybe worth it for one of the best in town.

The latest National outlet is in a bright, former Blockbuster video store in the West Hills shopping mall, with lots of windows, an expansive patio and shared, picnic-style tables.

National
180 Stewart Green SW, (and two other Calgary locations)
Weekdays 11 am-late, weekend 10 am to late
National Westhills on Urbanspoon

What are your favourite Calgary burger joints? Just hit the reply button at the top left of the page.

Five Best Calgary Stampede Breakfasts

Mmm, pancakes. You can eat them every morning for free at Calgary Stampede breakfasts throughout the city

Mmm, pancakes. You can eat them every morning for free at Calgary Stampede breakfasts throughout the city

Beef and beer. The two primary food groups of the Calgary Stampede, right? Well, remember what your mother said about the most important meal of the day.

Yes, that means Stampede breakfasts. Yee-haw! They’re an important cultural component of the annual shindig—western hospitality served up with chuck wagons, sizzling grills and some two-step dancing.

Best of all, for budget-conscious road trippers, they’re mostly free. In other words, no chafing the back of your hand to pull the wallet from those crisp new blue jeans. In fact, one can carbo load gratis for all 10 days of the Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth.

Mind you, there’s not a lot of variety to this diet: day after day of pancakes, sausages and orange juice. But did I mention, they’re free? About the only cost is a worthy donation to the Calgary Food Bank through the Put the Boots to Hunger campaign, affiliated with a number of breakfasts.

The only problem is trying to decide which breakfast(s) to attend. There’s got to be well over 100 of these flapjack fests on offer every year. Seemingly every community association, shopping centre, charity, corporation of note and, of course, politician hosts their own. So, as a public service, here are five Stampede breakfasts worth putting on your calendar.

1. Ismaili Muslim Community Breakfast – This will blow your mind. The best Stampede breakfast is hosted by Calgary’s Ismaili Muslim community. The food (especially the spiced eggs and lentils) is sublime, the temple tours enlightening and the organization so efficient I’d happily let these people run the world. Is it any wonder this is the faith of Calgary Mayor Naheed Nenshi? This year, the “breakfast” is taking place at sunset to mark the “breaking” of the “fast” (ie breakfast) of Ramadan.

Serving up great eggs and pancakes at the best, most unusual Stampede breakfast, hosted by the local Ismaili community

Serving up great eggs, lentils and pancakes at the best, most unusual Stampede breakfast, hosted by the local Ismaili community

Ismaili Muslim Community Breakfast
1128 45 Avenue N.E. (SE corner of McKnight Blvd and Deerfoot Trail); lots of volunteers to direct you to free parking and shuttle buses
Saturday, July 5, starts at 8:30 pm, breakfast served at 9:52 p.m.

2. Calgary Caravan Breakfasts – The Stampede Carvan Committee is a team of volunteers that puts on two-a-day Stampede breakfasts throughout the city. Besides breakfast, these folks arrange native hoop-dancing demonstrations and visits from the Stampede queen and princesses. Perhaps the best of these, from an intimate, community perspective, is at Britannia Shopping Plaza, where after wolfing down breakfast on a hay bale, you can work off the calories with a lovely walk on Brittania Drive overlooking the Elbow River.

Britannia Shopping Plaza
815 49 Avenue S.W
Friday, July 11, 9-11 am

3. CBC Calgary – The Caravan Committee also coordinates CBC Calgary’s early-morning Stampede breakfast, now in its 25th year, with co-host Calgary Co-op offering gluten-free options. Mingle in CBC’s sun-dappled parking lot while watching a live broadcast of the Calgary Eyeopener and grooving to some great musical talent.

CBC Calgary
1724 Westmount Boulevard NW (along Memorial Drive)
Thursday, July 3, 7-9 am

4. Community Natural Foods – As a health-food store, it’s not surprising that Community Natural Foods boasts the greenest Stampede breakfast. This ranges from gluten-free, vegetarian and organic options to encouraging participants to bring reusable plates. Think natural, local sausages, real maple syrup and the freshest orange juice I’ve had at any of these breakfasts.

Community Natural Foods – Chinook Station Market
202, 61 Avenue SW
Saturday, July 12, 7-10 am

5. Fluor Rope Square – If you’re staying or visiting downtown, just wander down to Olympic Plaza, across from City Hall. Each morning, the cooks go through 150 gallons of pancake batter and 500 pounds of bacon, all cooked on smoking griddles at the back of real chuckwagons. After wiping the syrup from your lips, try your feet at square dancing and watch the daily native parade.

Fluor Rope Square
Olympic Plaza (corner of 7 Avenue and Macleod Trail SE)
Saturday July 5 and Monday July 7 to Saturday July 12, 8:15-10:30 am

Unless you’re well connected, you may have to pull some wedding crasher stunts to get into the most exclusive Stampede breakfasts. I’m talking about private parties, where law firms, investment bankers, oil companies and the like treat their clients to a fine morning gathering, perhaps enhanced with a little sauce. Obviously, these soirees aren’t advertised. To get a glimpse of how this world turns, you may have to peer into the windows of participating restaurants like River Café, on Prince’s Island, which serves guests fresh pastries, free-range eggs and house-made granola. Of course, first-class pancakes are also on offer.

Great Summer Reads? Just Ask Judy

Just ask Judy Gardner for great, unusual summer reads. She's sold more than 300 customers on this fascinating medical book.

Just ask Judy Gardner for great, unusual summer reads. She’s sold more than 300 customers on this fascinating medical book

Bricks-and-mortar bookstores will never disappear. Why? Because of people like Judy Gardner.

Now, many experts will tell you traditional bookstores are threatened by online giants like Amazon. The same folks happily predict the imminent demise of the printed book, with an ever-increasing number of people downloading electronic books to their tablets and e-readers.

Why, what could be more perfect than all your summer reading, at the cottage or on the road, stored on a device half the size of a paperback novel?

But online ordering and downloading misses a crucial ingredient: the personal relationship with a skilled bookseller, or should I say book selector. In this case, Judy.

Whenever I go into the Indigo Books store in Calgary’s West Hills shopping centre, I immediately go searching not for books but for Judy, praying it’s one of the days she’s working. If she’s there, I just say I’m looking for some books for, say, road-trip reading or Christmas gifts. I then simply follow her around the store as she makes recommendations that rarely, if ever, miss the mark.

There's nothing like a good summer book, even if it's reading by osmosis

There’s nothing like a good summer book, even if it’s reading by osmosis

In his book The Tipping Point, Malcolm Gladwell talks about mavens, people we rely on to connect us with new information. Well, Judy is one of those people. She reads widely and assiduously and has the rare ability to quickly size up a person’s reading habits and steer them to something they’ve never heard of but will undoubtedly like.

“It’s like being a chef and instinctively knowing what to put together for people,” she says. “I’ve been very fortunate that for more than 20 years (including a stint at former Calgary independent bookseller Sandpiper Books) I’ve been able to pass on my passion about reading books and to encourage people to take risks.”

Anyone can point you to the bestseller table. A more unusual gift is finding off-the-radar gems and convincing readers to buy them. Judy has sold more than 300 copies of one such book, God’s Hotel, a medical meditation by Dr. Victoria Sweet, with whom Judy has struck up an email correspondence. Talk about old-school viral.

A friend recently asked Judy for some travel and light summer reading and walked out of the store with 10 captivating books. One loyal customer buys a dozen of Judy’s recommended books every few weeks. If Judy’s going to be away, she’ll phone the woman to come in early to stock up on her reading material.

Of course, she’s “sold” books to her big boss, Toronto-based Indigo/Chapters founder and CEO Heather Reisman. “I’ve seen her enough times that, when she’s in town, she gives me a hug,” says Judy.

Regular Indigo/Chapters’ customers are familiar with Heather’s Picks. Well, just as importantly, here are some of Judy’s current reading picks.

This literally rambling book gets Judy's seal of approval

This literally rambling book gets Judy’s seal of approval

God’s Hotel: A Doctor, a Hospital, and a Pilgrimage to the Heart of Medicine. By Victoria Sweet, who has worked at San Francisco’s extended-care Laguna Honda Hospital for 20 years

The Old Ways – A pilgrimage on foot along many of the British Isles’ paths and old roads by Robert Macfarlane

The Pope’s Bookbinder – A memoir by longtime Toronto antiquarian book dealer David Mason

Much Loved – Photographer Mark Nixon’s homage to aging and much-loved teddy bears and other stuffed animals

Medicine Walk– Canadian writer Richard Wagamese’s latest novel, about a father-and-son struggle

Cheap Calgary Breakfasts: Part 2

Danny Korduner delivers two fruit-covered bowls of made-to-order oatmeal at Margarita's Dishes in the Calgary Farmers' Market

Danny Korduner delivers two fruit-covered bowls of made-to-order oatmeal at Margarita’s Dishes in the Calgary Farmers’ Market

Light Breakfast Eats

Breakfast sandwiches conjure up images of an egg (maybe precooked) and a slice of cheese slapped on an English muffin—the kind of snack that goes down in a couple of gulps. Not so at Bite Groceteria & Café, in Calgary’s trendy Inglewood neighbourhood. Here, the breakfast sandwich ($4.95) is a made-to-order monster, featuring fluffy eggs, avocado, Oka cheese, thick chunks of bacon, lettuce and tomato, all stuffed between two nicely toasted pieces of whole-grain bread. It’s one of the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve eaten, almost a morning BLT with scrambled egg thrown into the mix.

Maybe the best breakfast sandwich I've eaten, at Bite Groceteria

One of the best breakfast sandwiches I’ve eaten, at Bite Groceteria & Cafe

Bite Groceteria & Cafe
1023 9 Avenue S.E., Calgary
Monday and Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Tuesday to Friday 9 am-6 pm
Bite Groceteria on Urbanspoon

I’ve scarcely sat down at Holy Grill when my little buzzer goes off, signaling my breakfast sandwich is ready. “Your Americano is coming right up,” the counter guy says. “Too late,” I reply. “It’s already been delivered.” The speed is a product of six people scurrying around the tiny, open kitchen, cooking Benedicts, paninis and even a breakfast burger on an English muffin.

My bacon avocado crisp ($7) is almost too pretty to eat. But my stomach wins out, and I dig into a creation that includes a crispy fried egg, spinach and an unlikely ingredient, eggplant, all tucked inside a toasted Kaiser bun. It disappears in just over the time it takes to cook it.

A gorgeous bacon, egg and avocado breakfast sandwich at Holy Grill

A gorgeous bacon, egg and avocado breakfast sandwich at Holy Grill

Holy Grill
827 10 Avenue S.W., Calgary
Weekdays 7:30 am-4 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Closed Sunday
Holy Grill on Urbanspoon

At Margarita’s Dishes, in the Calgary Farmers’ Market, Danny Korduner and his mother, Margarita, are amongst the friendliest people you’ll meet. You can certainly load a plate with their Eastern European dishes like hand-rolled blintzes and savoury sausages. But why not get a bowl of creamy, hot oatmeal, made to order and smothered in fresh fruit?

It's hard to see the creamy oatmeal under all that fruit

It’s hard to see the creamy oatmeal under all that fruit

Margarita’s Dishes (in the Calgary Farmers’ Market)
510 77 Avenue SE, Calgary
Thursday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm, closed Monday to Wednesday
Margarita's Dishes on Urbanspoon

Caffé Mauro serves hefty, delicious meatball and Italian deli meat sandwiches at lunchtime. It also makes smaller, creative breakfast items like a boiled egg sandwich ($5.50) or a prosciutto provolone melt. But I go for an egg perfectly poached in a tomato sauce, topped with cheddar and served on a half baguette. It’s a light $6.25 meal, but like everything owner Sal Malvaso does, it’s well executed.

A lovely egg poached in tomato sauce at Caffe Mauro

A lovely egg poached in tomato sauce at Caffe Mauro

Caffé Mauro
999 8 Street S.W., Calgary
Weekdays 7:30 am-4 pm. Closed weekends
Caffe Mauro on Urbanspoon

Cheap Calgary Breakfasts: Part 1

Want a good helping of character to go with a cheap, decent Calgary breakfast? Look no further than the Deer Head Cafe

Want a good helping of character to go with a cheap, decent Calgary breakfast? Look no further than the Deer Head Cafe

Finding inexpensive breakfasts in the U.S. is like hitting the ocean with a rock tossed from the beach. Prices go up north of the border, especially in big cities and resort communities.

In Calgary, there are lots of places that will set you back $15 for a morning feed. Sure, some are cutting edge—think potatoes cooked in duck fat or eggs Benedict topped with Prosecco hollandaise. But sometimes, all you want is a basic breakfast that won’t break the bank.

With a little digging, I’ve unearthed some Calgary breakfasts for under $10. Certainly, some are a little greasy, the venues character places. But others offer first-rate meals for a pittance. I’ve broken them into two parts: full breakfasts and light bites.

Full Breakfasts

Perched on the edge of downtown Calgary, *Grumans Delicatessen is built for a lunch crowd eager to devour smoked-meat sandwiches, slow-roasted beef brisket and fine potato salad. But when I roll in a little after 7 am on a Monday, the place is empty. What all those folks streaming past on their way to work are missing is maybe the best breakfast deal in Calgary.

It’s Grumans early-bird special, available from 7 to 9 am weekdays. For the amazing price of $7 (including tax), I get two perfectly poached eggs, two thick slices of double-smoked bacon, two feathery latkes (potato pancakes) and some nice multi-grain toast. Oh, and endless cups of great coffee from local roaster Angel’s beans. Another reason to go early: Free on-street parking till 9 am.

Grumans Delicatessen offers maybe the best early-bird breakfast in Calgary: $7, including excellent coffee and tax

Grumans Delicatessen offers maybe the best early-bird breakfast in Calgary: $7, including excellent coffee and tax

Grumans is owned by long-time Calgary restaurateur Peter Fraiberg (born in Montreal, natch), whose recipes, historic photos and words of Jewish wisdom on the walls borrow heavily from his mother, or “Bubby”.

Grumans Catering and Delicatessen
230 11 Avenue SE, Calgary
Weekdays 7 am-3:30 pm (breakfast till 10:30), weekends 9 am-3:30 pm
Grumans Catering and Delicatessen on Urbanspoon

Talk about false advertising. A handmade sign on the wall at John’s Breakfast & Lunch warns there will be a bit of a wait for the small kitchen to prepare ordered meals. But I’ve hardly had time to digest this news when my veggie eggs Benedict arrives. Admittedly, it’s a weekday mid-morning, and there are just a handful of regulars, including a couple of uniformed cops, in attendance. Still, I didn’t realize perfectly cooked poached eggs could be produced so fast.

John's Breakfast & Lunch offers ample warning about being patient. In my case, the breakfast arrived hot and fast

John’s Breakfast & Lunch offers ample warning about being patient. In my case, the breakfast arrived hot and fast

It’s a big platter of food, with a pond of hollandaise over the two eggs and a generous helping of home-cooked potatoes. And it’s a real deal at $8.50 (a buck more with ham). All-day breakfasts with all the fixings run for as little as $7.50, with a long list of omelettes starting at $9.

My benny was smothered in Hollondaise, with some nice, grilled new potatoes

My benny was smothered in Hollondaise, with some nice, grilled new potatoes

This northwest neighbourhood hangout is casually but efficiently run by a couple—John, who does the cooking, and Wendy, who runs the front. Marketing is strictly word of mouth, with no business cards, website or cute name. Heck, the name of the previous incarnation, Café Boutique, is still on the front windows some six years later. What this means for customers, though, is great prices for tasty, well-prepared breakfasts.

John’s Breakfast & Lunch
2614 4 Street NW, Calgary
Monday to Saturday 7:30 am-3:30 pm. Closed Sunday
John's Breakfast & Lunch on Urbanspoon

You’ve heard of a deer in the headlights? Well, at Deer Head Café, I’m the one caught in the glassy-eyed gaze of, you guessed it, three wall-mounted deer heads. This may not be environmentally fashionable among those flocking to trendier breakfast digs scant kilometres south on Edmonton Trail. But I don’t imagine it matters much to the folks who frequent this little industrial-area diner, where time has stood still for most of its 67 years. The frayed nylon booths have duct-tape patching, and the little clipboards that hold the written orders are from the distant past.

This clipboard for holding orders at Deer Head Cafe probably belongs in a museum

This clipboard for holding orders at Deer Head Cafe probably belongs in a museum

The prices and the menu, too, are old fashioned. My $6.50 bacon and cheese omelette arrives hot and fast, with a crispy side of hash browns and “white or brown” toast. For about the same price, I could order something you don’t see on modern menus: pork chops and eggs. In all, it’s a decent breakfast, with a heaping amount of character.

My $6 omelette, with a side of "brown" toast, goes down nicely

My $6.50 bacon and cheese omelette, with a side of “brown” toast, goes down nicely

Deer Head Café
3704 Edmonton Trail NE
Weekdays 6:15 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 7 am-2 pm, Sunday 8 am-2 pm
Deerhead Cafe on Urbanspoon

Update: The Grey Eagle Casino breakfast special has shot up in price, all the way to $4.99. A big hike but still likely the cheapest full breakfast you’ll find in the city.

Is a $1.99 breakfast a gamble? Not at Grey Eagle Casino, on Tsuu T’ina First Nation lands in southwest Calgary.

Like the free drinks in Las Vegas, the bargain-basement breakfast special at Grey Eagle is obviously intended to lure bettors in the door. It seems to be working, though maybe the some 50, mostly older, folks gathered in deep, semicircular booths in the spacious dining room are here just for a cheap mid-morning feed.

A trolley rolls past, containing trays topped by hospital-style beige lids. Under the lid is a full breakfast: two eggs (in my case poached), bacon, hash browns, toast, a little dish of beans and a slice of cantaloupe.

The $1.99 breakfast special at the Grey Eagle Casino may be the best bang for your buck in town

The $1.99 breakfast special at the Grey Eagle Casino may be the best bang for your buck in town

Is it a great breakfast? No. The ingredients are somewhat second rate and the meal is lukewarm. But, hey, you get what you pay for, and it’s certainly the biggest bang for your buck outside of an IKEA restaurant. As long as you stay away from all those glittering slot machines on the way out. I do and find a dime on the ground outside, lowering my net cost to under $2, tax included.

Grey Eagle Casino
3777 Grey Eagle Drive (corner of 37 Street SW and Glenmore Trail), Calgary
Breakfast special Monday to Saturday 9:30 am-11 am
Grey Eagle Casino Buffet on Urbanspoon

I’ve written before about the great lunch deals—especially the Big Pan meals like butter chicken and curries—at Sunterra Market, a combination of upscale grocery and quick-food restaurant. They also serve inexpensive breakfasts at most of their Calgary locations. Expect to pay about $6 for bacon, eggs, toast and maybe a fruit cup. The west Calgary spot I visit is certainly popular, with window-side tables full of folks munching on full brekkies, scones and cinnamon buns, tossed down with coffee.

Unfortunately, my $6 chorizo frittata special doesn’t deliver. The frittata is hard and dry, the culprit a warming lamp keeping already cooked and cut wedges scarcely alive—a definite no-no. As well, the potato slices are tired looking and the toast unbuttered. I should have ordered poached eggs or the prime-rib omelette special, items that have to be cooked to order.

The breakfasts are cheap and quick at Sunterra Market. Unfortunately, my dry frittata's been warming under a heat lamp

The breakfasts are cheap and quick at Sunterra Market. Unfortunately, my dry frittata’s been warming under a heat lamp

The good news is my flavourful Americano. Because the espresso machine is recharging and I have to wait a couple of minutes, the friendly barista says, “No charge. It’s on us.”

Sunterra Market—West Market Square
1851 Sirocco Drive SW
Monday to Saturday 8 am-9 pm, Sunday 9 am-8 pm
Sunterra Market on Urbanspoon

The Big Taste of Calgary’s River Cafe

Don't you want to just run down to Calgary's River Cafe and dive into this divine tuna dish?

Don’t you want to just run down to Calgary’s River Cafe and dive into this divine tuna dish? (Photos by Helen Corbett)

Really, is there a nicer, cozier place to have lunch on a winter’s day than *River Café, in Calgary’s Prince’s Island Park? The imaginative and immaculately prepared food is usually beyond my road tripper’s budget. But during downtown Calgary’s Big Taste week (on until March 16), I can savour a three-course, scratch-made lunch for the bargain price of $15.

Continue reading