Category Archives: Mexico

Seeking Tacos in Cabo

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1 & Only Taco is a delightful little taco stand in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

It’s hard to throw a rock in Mexico without hitting a taco stand, shop or truck. When in Cabo San Lucas every few years, I try to hit a few such taco spots. The challenge is finding the winners among the multitudes.

Tacos Gardenias is always a reliable go-to—a large, shaded space with fine seafood tacos and shrimp molcajetes, It’s fun and flavourful loading up on all the condiments and sauces laid out on the table.

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Tacos Gardenias is always a reliable taco shop in Cabo

But when I can hit a hole-in-the-wall, family operation only a couple of blocks from where I’m staying, I’m all in.

Actually, I walk past it a couple of time before seeing the tiny sign, 1 & Only Taco, tacked onto a much larger Baja Seafood sign. To further obscure matters, the business end of the taco shop is hidden behind a little bar.

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Sarah cooking my lunch in a little kitchen

But it’s all good once I’m inside, greeted by the exceedingly friendly couple that own the shop. I take a seat at a little table and chat with Frederico while Sarah prepares my lunch: lightly breaded fish and shrimp tacos and a beef taco; they’re temporarily out of the smoked marlin.

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Frederico is the engaging front man

Three brimming tacos for $6 US. As fresh and tasty as any you’ll find in Cabo.

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Fish and beef tacos

1 & Only Taco
Camino Real 2506 S/n, Cabo Sand Lucas, Mexico
11 am-8 pm Monday-Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, noon-8 pm, closed Wednesday and Friday

Mexican Reprieve From Winter

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The charming downtown streets of Todos Santos

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A cruise ship at bay in Cabo San Lucas

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Saturday shrimp boil at Sancho’s Sports Bar in Cabo

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A rare lavender hibiscus

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Downtown Todos Santos

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Undeveloped beach south of Todos Santos

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Sunday market beside Baja Beans in Pescadero

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Sunrise at the beach in Cabo San Lucas

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Early-morning sweeping at the resort

Searching for Strong, Flavourful Mexican Beer

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Pablo, our beer guide at La Pintada in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Mexican beer still wallows where American suds once languished: weak, low-alcohol piss with no flavour or buzz, unless imbibed in quantity.

That still seems to be the case south of the Rio Grande, where shelves are brimming with bottles of Pacifico, Corona, Dos Equis and Modelo. All containing thin, indistinguishable liquid, the only merits of which are “cold” and “wet”. Best guzzled, not sipped and considered.

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A typical thin, flavourless Mexican beer

Can you imagine squeezing a wedge of lime into a bottle of unfiltered west-coast ale to lend it some flavour? Didn’t think so.

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The label was more colourful than the contents

Thus on a recent early-winter sojourn to the resort community of Cabo San Lucas, I made it a mission to find some good Mexican craft beer. Well, more of a quest than a mission, as by the time the daily beer thirst hit, it was rather hot to be roaming the dusty streets of downtown, where any craft beer was to be found.

But I was in luck, mostly because of a newfound friend, who had done most of the scouting for me. It turns out that arguably the best beer hall in Cabo was only 10 minutes away from our resort, via a mostly shaded, narrow sidewalk and a quick final dash across a busy street.

Our destination, La Pintada, has some good food, featuring thin-crust, stone-oven pizza, grilled fish and Mexican dishes like my flavourful organic chicken mole enchiladas. But the real draw was a list of some 10 craft beers on tap at the restaurant bar, called Ramuri.

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The stone-oven pizza was mighty fine

Some were from Baja Brewing, a few blocks away. But the highlights were pints of IPA from further afield; great, complex stuff, especially on a two-for-one happy-hour deal.

One was Perro Del Mar, a pungent, unfiltered beer (7% alcohol, 80 IBU) from Cerveceria Wendlandt, a brewery way up north in Ensenada. Another, Lycan Lupus (5.7%), from Fauna Brewery in Mexicali.

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But we were here for the craft beer, including this excellent Perro Del Mar IPA

We topped things off with a shared bottle of potent Astillero—an Imperial IPA, from Agua Mala in Ensenada, weighing in at 7.1%. We then staggered home in the late-afternoon heat for a siesta.

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A list of the beers on tap and in bottles

La Pintada
Corner of Camino Real and Boulevard Lazaro Cardenas, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Daily 1 pm-10 pm, except closed Monday

Going With My Gut in Nogales, Arizona

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Great, affordable Mexican seafood at Cocina La Ley in Nogales, Arizona

Before I hit a new town or city on a road trip, I usually do considerable online research on the best places to eat. But sometimes it’s best to just wing it.

Such is the case when we approach Nogales, a city of 20,000 on the Arizona-Mexico border south of Tucson. The critters in the car are hungry, and Nogales is only five minutes away.

Just time for a quick “best restaurants in Nogales” search on TripAdvisor. Up pops Cocina La Ley, where one reviewer said he was the only gringo in the place. Perfect.

So off a main street we turn onto a little gravel road past an auto body shop to a little slope-roofed concrete building, with a bunch of cars around it. Double perfect.

Inside, we join the fast-moving lunch line and order mainly shrimp and breaded fish tacos, for about $2 apiece; the place is also noted for its shrimp-laden cocteles (cocktails) and soups. No sooner do we take our seats at a table, than the food arrives on Styrofoam plates. We adorn our little tacos with toppings such as pico de gallo and squirts from bottles, ranging from mild to searing, and dig into our excellent fare.

 

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Delicious seafood tacos

Seeing our plates quickly cleaned, our sharp-eyed server/table cleaner orders us a few more tacos, which again appear out of nowhere. We hardly have time to soak in the busy atmosphere of local families enjoying their meals.

So, thanks to TripAdvisor for leading us to a wonderful, inexpensive lunch. But don’t take every review seriously. “This isn’t a place for ambience,” one visitor commented. Au contraire. The place is dripping with it.

Cocina La Ley
226 West 3 Street, Nogales, Arizona
Daily 8 am-4 pm
520-287-4555

Great Saturday Market in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico

Ring of tostadas at Las Cazuelas del Don at the weekly market in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico

Ring of tostadas at Las Cazuelas del Don at the weekly market in San Jose del Cabo, Mexico

The organic market in San Jose del Cabo is held on Saturdays, in an open field, down a rough dirt road northeast of downtown (it’s not far from the Mexican resort of Cabo san Lucas). It attracts a mix of locals and laid-back tourists, who casually peruse produce, hand-crafted jewelry, lotions and clothing. You know, something to fill the stalls between the important stuff: the fresh meals.

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Escape the Tourist Hordes in Charming Todos Santos, Mexico

Excellent seafood fare at Bahia Restaurant & Bar in Todos Santos, Mexico

Excellent seafood fare at Bahia Restaurant & Bar in Todos Santos, Mexico

Tired of the tourist hordes, traffic jams and general clamour of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico? Just head an hour north, on excellent Highway 19, up the Pacific side of the Baja Peninsula. Stop first for a long, sandy stroll at Cerritos Beach, where you can watch surfers and families frolic in the waves. Then continue north a little ways to Todos Santos, a true oasis in the otherwise parched landscape.

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