Category Archives: Monterey

Taking an Affordable U.S. Road Trip With the Battered Canadian Loonie

Am I loony to be considering a U.S. road trip?

Am I loony to be considering a U.S. road trip?

It’s a great time to be an American, especially if you’re travelling to Canada. The soaring greenback is a big reason why Whistler, B.C. is enjoying a stellar ski season and Canmore’s vacation condo market is hopping in an otherwise bleak Alberta economy.

By contrast, it’s a terrible time to be a Canadian considering a U.S. vacation. The realization that it’s going to cost you $1.45 Canadian to buy one measly American dollar is enough to make most northerners curl up in the fetal position till the snow starts melting in, say, May.

But it’s still possible to have a reasonably affordable trip stateside, particularly if you make it a road trip rather than a flight to a destination resort. Mind you, the approach I suggest leans much more to the dirtbag than the five star. You have been warned.

Fill er up

The biggest advantage for a U.S. road-tripping adventure is the cost of gasoline. It’s traditionally been a bargain, given the much lower gas taxes south of the border. But even with the badly wounded loonie, you might still save some money.

It depends on where you live and where you’re traveling. In Alberta, for example, you can fill up right now for under 80 cents (Cndn) a litre, compared with more than $1 in B.C. Western U.S. prices range from about $1.76 (US) a gallon in Denver to $2.60 in Los Angeles. Obviously, there’s a price to pay for living on or visiting the west coast of either country. I call it a smug tax.

Figuring out your fill-up cost involves converting litres to American gallons and then converting Canadian dollars to those $1.45 American ones. For a fill-up of 50 litres (13.2 U.S. gallons), it will cost an Albertan $40 and a British Columbian more than $50, at home in Cndn. dollars. That same amount of gas will cost you $33.68 in Denver and $49.76 in L.A., in converted Cndn dollars.

You can't fill your own tank in Oregon but filling up likely won't cost any more than in Canada

You can’t fill your own tank in Oregon but filling up likely won’t cost any more than in Canada

The bottom line is the cost of gasoline isn’t going to be a deal breaker for deciding whether to hit the U.S. road or plan a staycation. And if you’re in Oregon, where you’re not allowed by law to fill your own gas tank, the attendant will usually clean your windows.

Skip the hotels and motels

I once did a month-long road trip where my total cost of accommodation was $50. How did I pull off this magic trick? Other than two nights of camping and a couple parked on urban side streets, I mostly stayed in 24-hour Walmart parking lots for free.

I’d much rather sleep in the great outdoors, preferably in a magnificent state or national park campground along the crashing ocean or beneath a lofty canopy. While it’s going to cost you about $30 US a night to camp in the redwood forests of northern California, you can find more spartan digs for maybe $10 elsewhere. Do a bit of sleuthing and you can discover national forest or Bureau of Land Management (BLM) spots for free. Running water and toilets, however, may be optional.

Still, it’s a much more pastoral experience than parking in the distant corner of an asphalt Walmart parking lot, with blinding street lights and roaring vehicles and motorized street sweepers at all hours of the night. A camper of some sort, with curtains, is the best way to keep the glare and din at bay. In a pinch, though, good ear plugs and an eye shade will suffice if you’re curled up in the back of your car.

Welcome to the Walmart Motel. Cost $0

Welcome to the Walmart Motel. Cost $0

While you’re tossing and turning, just think of the $50 to $100 a night you’re saving by not booking a motel bed, TV and rattling air-conditioning unit. And who needs a shower? If you’re desperate, you can always make do with the sink in a Walmart washroom, open around the clock.

Affordable dining

Until fairly recently, I figured eating out at American restaurants was 10 to 20 per cent cheaper than in Canada, even with the exchange rate (portions are generally bigger, too). But when you’re paying upwards of 40 per cent to exchange loonies into greenbacks, that advantage has more than disappeared.

Of course, the cheapest feeding solution is to buy groceries and cook them wherever you’re staying. But since this is a road-trip dining blog, let’s look at a few ways you can still eat out somewhat affordably.

A succulent burger and fries at Mountain Sun in Boulder, Colorado will set you back about $13 (US)

A succulent burger and fries at Mountain Sun in Boulder, Colorado will set you back about $13 (US)

  1. Beer and burger – At Moab Brewery, on the doorstep of Arches National Park in Utah, a burger and fries is $9 (US) and a 16-ounce pint of their ale $4.25. By comparison, a burger and fries in the Alberta resort towns of Canmore and Banff will set you back about $16 (Cndn), washed down with a $7.50, 19-ounce pint. So even with the steep conversion rate, the equivalent total cost in Canadian dollars is $19.20 Moab and $23.50 Banff. Obviously, prices will vary in different places, but clearly not a deal breaker.
  2. Better breakfasts – Breakfast is generally the best value, both in cost (often under $10 in the U.S.) and volume; you might not need to eat lunch. Omelettes don’t seem much cheaper stateside, but you can often find a stack of pancakes for $5 or $6.
  3. Stock up on sandwiches – You can find some monstrous, made-to-order, delicious sandwiches in many U.S. delis and cafes. At the Sandwich Spot in Palm Springs, the humongous Grand Slam—featuring turkey, ham and roast beef—was $8. I gave half to a street person, but it would have fed me for two days. A half sandwich at Grove Market deli, in Salt Lake City, was $7 and still weighed nearly two pounds. It was $8 for a similar behemoth at Compagno’s Delicatessen, in Monterey, California.
This delicious half sandwich was only $8 at Campagno's Delicatessen in Monterey, California

This delicious half sandwich was only $8 at Campagno’s Delicatessen in Monterey, California

I could go on, but I have to wipe the drool off my face… and grab a road map.

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Mmmarvelous Monterey, California

Amazing jellyfish gracefully moving at Monterey Bay Aquarium

Amazing jellyfish gracefully moving at Monterey Bay Aquarium

Monterey is best known for its fabulous Monterey Bay Aquarium, a world-class facility well worth the $35 entry fee for its giant tanks of in-your-face sea creatures of all kinds. But it’s also a surprisingly good place to eat… something that’s not sea food.

Thierry Crocquet  starts cooking his authentic Brittany crepes

Thierry Crocquet starts cooking his authentic Brittany crepes

What happens when west-coast California meets something distinctly French? You get *Crepes of Brittany, a terrific hole-in-the-wall shop amongst the carnival that is Monterey’s Old Fisherman’s Wharf. When I visit, co-owner Thierry Croquet is manning three circular grills, pumping out sweet crepes with house-made caramel sauce and piles of fresh fruit. But where these guys really shine is their authentic Brittany savoury crepes, or galettes. They’re made from organic buckwheat flour and left to cook till the crepe is a little crispy and the inner ingredients—like my caramelized onion, spinach and cheese—are hot. “It takes time to make them, and the lines can get pretty long in summer,” says French-born but longtime Monterey resident Thierry. “But everybody leaves happy.” Me, too, especially after he hands me a wonderfully chewy but not too sweet sugar crepe, squeezing half a lemon over it as a finishing touch.

The finished product, an egg and salmon savoury crepe

The finished product, an egg and salmon savoury crepe

http://www.crepesofbrittany.com
6C Old Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey
Monday, Thursday, Friday 8 am-3 pm, Saturday-Sunday 8 am-4 pm
Crepes of Brittany on Urbanspoon

Eight dollars is a little stiff for half a sandwich, I’m thinking, as I line up at the counter of *Compagno’s Delicatessen, a little corner store up a steep residential street in Monterey. Then owner Bennett Compagno cuts a soft, fresh ciabatta loaf in half and starts loading it up… with multiple slices of mortadella (with pistachio), slabs of provolone, red onions, lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and peppers. By the time he’s done, it must weigh nearly three pounds—maybe the thickest sandwich I’ve ever wrestled my jaw around. A big guy in front of me has ordered a whole chicken breast sandwich ($11), and he’s staggering under the load. Compagno’s supports its troops, with military t-shirts pinned to the ceiling and special subs with names like air force, navy seal and the like. After all, any of their fantastic sandwiches could feed a small army. Note: Compagno’s grocery section includes something I’ve never seen before—imported beer from Russia, Romania and Montenegro.

A honking big mortadella sandwich at Compagno's Deli in Monterey

A honking big mortadella sandwich at Compagno’s Deli in Monterey

Compagno’s Delicatessen
2000 Prescott Avenue, Monteray
Weekdays 9 am-6 pm, weekends 9 am-5 pm
Compagnos Market & Deli on Urbanspoon