Excellent seafood fare at Bahia Restaurant & Bar in Todos Santos, Mexico
Tired of the tourist hordes, traffic jams and general clamour of Cabo San Lucas, Mexico? Just head an hour north, on excellent Highway 19, up the Pacific side of the Baja Peninsula. Stop first for a long, sandy stroll at Cerritos Beach, where you can watch surfers and families frolic in the waves. Then continue north a little ways to Todos Santos, a true oasis in the otherwise parched landscape.
Good, no-frills fare at Tacos Gardenias in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
The problem with many restaurants in Mexican resorts is they try too hard to tart up basic street food. When all you want is good, simple food, expertly prepared, for a handful of pesos. Welcome to Tacos Gardenias, an unpretentious taqueria a couple of blocks from Cabo San Lucas’s main, Medano Beach.
Breakfast is your best value meal while road tripping
On an intense, road-food research trip, I forage like a shark. In a typical day, I’ll eat three restaurant meals, sip two high-end coffees, hit a bakery and finish things off with a pint or 22-ounce bomber of craft beer. I can stuff all this down for an average daily cost of $40, what many folks would spend on a single meal.
Here how I do it:
A pint of beer is often your best booze value when dining out
These fabulous three appetizers, at Restaurant 415 in Fort Collins, Colorado, set me back only $15
You know it’s not good for your wallet or blood-sugar levels. But can you resist this divine slice of pie at Hilltop Diner Cafe in Langley, B.C.?
After swallowing this flavourful, full-on breakfast at Village Smithy in Carbondale, Colorado, I’m good to go for the whole day
This wonderful, healthy lunch at Point No Point, near Sooke B.C., would be a more expensive dinner at most places
The happy-hour deals are on seven days a week at Gallo Blanco Cafe & Bar in Phoenix.
People often ask me what music I listen to on road trips. To be honest, no one’s asked. But that’s never stopped me before.
Actually, once I’ve settled into the rhythm of a road trip, I don’t listen to a lot of music or radio, other than a bit of right-wing ranting (for the hell of it) or NPR (RIP Car Talk). But nothing gets me through a long-stretch of interstate or late-night driving like a surge of juiced-up music.
Hence this list of mostly poppy music, the vast majority released in 2014. The list is dominated by women, which either says something about me or the state of indie music.
15. Best Coast: Fear of My Identity
When needed, this 2013 song gives me a straight shot of adrenaline. Instantly, I’m bouncing around the car… while, of course, keeping my hands on the wheel and eyes on the road.
14. First Aid Kit: My Silver Lining
A more theme-oriented song was the Soderberg sisters’ cover of Willie Nelson’s classic
“On the Road Again”, but it was only around briefly as a Volvo commercial on Swedish TV. But the lyric in this piece, “I won’t take the easy road”, steers things back in the right direction.
13. EMA: Cthulu
Does anyone slowly build to emotional climaxes like EMA?
12. The War on Drugs: An Ocean in Between the Waves
Comparisons have been made to Springsteen and Mark Knofler. No matter. Just enjoy this unfashionably long, guitar-driven rocker.
11. Bettye LaVette: Hustlin’
The gritty, bluesy theme song for the U.S. version of the TV show Low Winter Sun, cancelled after one, 2013, season (watch it on Netflix). Bettye’s own career has been counted down and out (like this number about embattled Detroit), but she’s persevered over decades to add richness to that glorious, soulful voice.
10. Jenny Lewis: Just One of the Guys
A great song on all levels, examining the ticking clock women face.
9. alt-J: Breezeblocks
British indie band alt-J came out with a much-lauded This is All Yours album in 2014, highlighted by “Left Hand Free.” But on a long road trip, I prefer this change-of-pace song from a couple of years earlier.
8. Courtney Barnett: David
Australian signer-songwriter-guitarist Courtney Barnett’s terrific double CD was released in North America in 2014. “David” crashes the list just for this lyric: “I don’t really like any of your friends, But it’s not that hard for me to pretend.”
7. Tune-Yards: Water Fountain
Tune-Yards, aka Merrill Garbus, is one of the most frenetically creative people in the business, combining music, art and dance into a mesmerizing mix. Just watch the video.
6. Laura Marling: Master Hunter
Nearly every reviewer notes how talented and accomplished this British folk musician is, releasing her fifth album at age 24. I concur.
5. Dum Dum Girls: Rimbaud Eyes
Can one get overdosed on the revival of surfer guitars? I say not. If this song doesn’t revive me on a long drive, I must be in a food-induced coma.
4. Rosanne Cash: A Feather’s Not a Bird
This early 2014, beautifully crafted song never slipped from my top five all year.
3. Spoon: Let Me Be Mine
The consistently best rock band of the past two decades.
2. Shovels & Rope: The Devil is All Around
In an era of downloading single songs from iTunes, one could throw a dart at the list of songs on this South Carolina duo’s latest album, Swimmin Time, and hit a winner every time. Michael Trent and Cary Ann Hearst play all the instruments, but it’s their soaring harmonies that knock this recording out of the park.
1. St. Vincent: Psychopath
St. Vincent (aka Annie Clarke) is perhaps the best, most inventive musician going, and she certainly hits her stride on this self-titled album. I could easily pick any number of great songs, but this one’s flown a little under the radar.
What are your favourite driving songs of 2014? Just hit the reply button at the top of the post and contribute to the dance session.
This simple but superb BLT at Magpie Cafe in Sacramento, California was one of the best sandwiches I ate in 2014
Two themes dominated my 2014 road-trip eating adventures in western North America. One was the preponderance of top-end chefs setting up shop in food trucks and churning out imaginative, excellent and most affordable fare (maybe the release of the fun movie Chef is an instance of art imitating life).
The other theme is how geographically diverse these winners are. Yes, the ethnic cauldron of Los Angeles produced many of my top choices. But so did unheralded southern Washington; take a bow Walla Walla and Tri-Cities. So did a lot of places not considered culinary hotbeds. I’m thinking of you Logan, Utah, Idaho Falls and Salmon (both in Idaho), and Mayne Island, a tiny place in B.C.’s Gulf Islands.
Best Breakfasts
Restaurant breakfasts are often the least healthy meal of the day. The holy pairing of grease and carbs bring together eggs cooked in butter, fat-laced bacon, oily hash browns and yet more butter smeared on a whack of toast. Alternatively, you can toss a pound of gluey, syrup-drenched pancakes down the hatch.
Waffles are pretty traditional, but this one is certainly enticing
So it’s nice to see more eateries throwing a healthier curve at the morning equation. Heck, when well done, it can even taste better than the old comfort fare, without the post-meal need to curl up in the fetal position.
Lotus Cafe is a treasure in touristy Jackson, Wyoming. Where it really shines is its imaginative breakfast bowls, like a sprouted buckwheat granola or a raw acai with a ton of fruit and other healthy goodies. Even the oatmeal is unique, featuring nutmeg and cardamom and a topping of pecans, dates and figs.
A beautiful stamped-tin ceiling is just one of Lotus Cafe’s many charms
Lotus Cafe
145 North Glenwood Street, Jackson, Wyoming
Daily 8 am-9 pm (reduced winter hours)
Ironically, there’s not a lot of bacon on the menu at Bacon & Eggs in Walla Walla, Washington. And you can get tofu or egg-white omelettes. But what catches my attention, and taste buds, is the Texas eggs, served atop brown rice and black beans, with a heavenly slice of house-made cornbread.
A delicious, healthy bowl of Texas eggs
Bacon & Eggs
503 East Main Street, Walla Walla, Washington
Thursday to Tuesday 8 am-2 pm. Closed Wednesday
Not often does a lowly breakfast sandwich make me swoon. But it certainly does at Crumb Brothers Artisan Bread & Cafe, in Logan, Utah. It’s the excellence of all the ingredients—from an ethereal ciabatta bun to lemon aioli—plus the painstaking execution that propels it into the stratosphere.
Breakfast sandwiches don’t get any better than this
Crumb Brothers Artisan Bakery
291 South 300 West, Logan, Utah
Weekdays 7 am-3 pm, Saturday 8 am-3 pm. Closed Sunday
Best Coffee
Yes, the fresh-roasted coffee is great at Iconoclast Koffie Huis in Edmonton, Alberta. As is the ultra-cool coffee bar, built from repurposed wood in this old warehouse. But it’s the half-hour conversations with co-owner Ryan Arcand and assorted regulars that make this a great coffeehouse in an era of heads glued to screens.
Iconoclast’s roaster is in back of the coffee bar in this refurbished warehouse
Iconoclast Koffie Huis
11807 105 Avenue, Edmonton, Alberta
Weekdays 9 am-5 pm, weekends 9 am-5 pm
Honourable Mentions: They both boast custom-built Slayer espresso machines and excellent coffee. Where they differ is in their decidedly unique locations: SnowDome Coffee Bar in a Jasper, Alberta Laundromat, and Strom Coffee, inside a refurbished Airstream trailer in Richland, Washington.
Best Bakery
purebread is based in the B.C. resort town of Whistler. But I encountered it at a Vancouver farmers’ market, where folks were lined up to buy its creative roster of breads—how about a sour cherry chocolate, a Disfunction Ale or an amazing fig loaf studded with hazelnut slices? The sign of a great bakery is when you can’t stop buying… or eating. Indeed, the crumbly slice of cornbread vanishes before we’ve walked a hundred feet.
Amazing fig loaf studded with hazelnut slices from pure bread
purebread
1, 1104 Millar Creek Road (another location in Olympic Plaza), Whistler, B.C.
Daily 8:30 am-5 pm
Best Sandwich
In a crowded list of contenders, tiny food truck The Goodwich, in downtown Las Vegas, stands out. Why? Because co-owner and high-end chef Josh Clark believes you can take almost any first-class ingredients and slap them between two slices of bread to create amazing, affordable sandwiches.
Josh Clark is putting high-end ingredients into most affordable sandwiches at The Goodwich, in Las Vegas
The Goodwich
1516 South Las Vegas Boulevard, Suite A, Las Vegas
Tuesday to Sunday 11 am-10 pm, except 4 pm closing Sunday. Closed Monday
Honourable Mentions: Magpie Cafe, in Sacramento, California elevates the generic BLT to godly status with orange heirloom tomatoes, thick slices of bacon and caper aioli on a fresh baguette. Simply excellent. Yes, the oven-roasted turkey on sourdough is outstanding at grungy Junkyard Bistro in Salmon, Idaho. But what slams it out of the park is the fabulous side of chunky potato salad.
Best Burrito
This deserves its own category in 2014, since I spent some time in the global burrito hotbeds of San Francisco and Los Angeles. The best of the best was longstanding, family-run La Azteca Tortilleria, in East Los Angeles. The killer ingredients include a fresh-ground, toasted corn tortilla, good steak and, the kicker, a whole chile relleno dipped in egg and then fried. I hoover down this messy puppy in the front seat of my car in under five minutes.
Siblings Chris and Cynthia Villa at Los Angeles’s La Azteca Tortilleria
La Azteca Tortilleria
4538 East Cesar East Chavez Avenue, Los Angeles
Daily 6 am-3:30 pm except closed Monday
Best Food Truck
At El Fat Cat Grill, in Kennewick Washington, chef-owner Felix Sanchez is mixing Mexican and Asian influences to come up with tasty, affordable gems like crispy tortillas smothered in pork, chipotle mole sauce and jalapeno coleslaw.
Chef Felix Sanchez mixing Mexican and Asian influences at his El Fat Cat Grill truck
Asian fare
El Fat Cat Grill
539 North Edison (behind the Edison carwash), Kennewick, Washington
Weekdays 11 am-7 pm. Closed Saturday and Sunday
Best Burger
Almost as good as the fresh-ground, perfectly cooked burger at The Bird, in Jackson, Wyoming, is the full page of the menu advising you how to order your meat. Let me summarize: Don’t dare ask for well done.
The “rules” at The Bird
The Bird
4125 South Pub Place (South Highway 89), Jackson, Wyoming
Monday to Saturday the bar opens at 4 pm and the kitchen at 5 pm, Sunday opening is 10 am
Best Pizza
Una Pizza + Wine’s Twitter feed lets you know how long the wait is at this exceedingly popular little joint in Calgary, Alberta. So best arrive early to order an outstanding, thin-crust pie—like roasted crimini mushrooms with smoked mozza and truffle oil—along with a mountainous kale Caesar salad topped with a boiled egg.
Una Pizza + Wine
618 17 Avenue SW, Calgary, Alberta
Daily 11:30 am-1 am
Best Exotic Cuisine
Korean food is celebrated for its barbecue, plus all those interesting little dishes that come as appetizers. But at Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo, in Los Angeles’s Koreatown, the standout is a huge bowl of Manila clam kalguksu with a boatload of engorged, hand-cut noodles.
Clams and hand-cut noodles in this lovely bowl at Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo
Hangari Bajirak Kalgooksoo
3470 West 6 Street, Suite 9, Los Angeles
Daily Monday to Saturday 10 am-10:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-10:30 pm
Best Fusion
Guerrilla Tacos owner-chef Wes Avila is storming the Los Angeles food world with a truck that’s spinning out stunning delights like a summer squash taco with runny chile and cashews.
Wes Avila concocts a summer squash taco at his Guerrilla Tacos truck
Guerilla Tacos
826 East 3 Street (other area locations), Los Angeles
Wednesday 10 am-2 pm, Thursday-Friday 9 am-2 pm, Saturday-Sunday 9 am-1 pm
Best Sushi
I don’t often get sushi on a road trip: it’s expensive and, all too often, generic. But at Koi Sushi—in a food court, next to a Walmart in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico—chef-owner Angel Huerta Ramirez fashions amazingly creative plates of affordable fare, featuring local wahoo and other creatures of the sea.
This wahoo sashimi plate was to die for
Koi Sushi
Plaza San Lucas, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Daily noon-9 pm
Best Pie
I don’t eat dessert. But when I’m offered a taste of a wee blueberry-raspberry pie with a port reduction sauce, at The Street Grill truck in Richland, Washington, I ignore spiking blood-sugar levels and keep shovelling till there’s not a crumb left.
The Street Grill
300 Knight Street (John Dam Plaza), Richland, Washington
Monday to Saturday 11 am-5 pm. Closed Sunday
Cast your eyes on this blueberry-raspberry, port-reduction pie and jump in your car.
Best Beer
Among the many pints and 22-ounce bombers I sampled on the road, the standout was a complex, flavour-filled Widmer Brothers Brewing (Portland) ale aged in bourbon barrels.
Widmer Brothers Brewing
955 North Russell, Portland, Oregon
Sunday to Thursday 11 am-10:30 pm, Friday-Saturday 11 am-11 pm
Honourable Mention: The combination might seem odd, but Wild Rose Brewery’s (Calgary, Alberta) seasonal cherry porter was a knockout. I stocked up on the one-litre bottles while they lasted.
Best Experience
At Farm Gate Store, on B.C’s Mayne Island, the divine grilled sandwiches are just the exclamation point on a fabulous rural shop that features local produce, meat and killer flower arrangements.
Co-owner Shanti arranges her farm-cut flower bouquets, a bargain $11
Farm Gate Store
568 Fernhill Road, Mayne Island, B.C.
Monday to Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm
Best Meal(s) of 2015
Why would I drive 1,100 kilometres (620 miles) for a meal? When it’s the best Mexican food I’ve devoured all year and served by wonderful owners Bertha Moreno and daughter Jessica. I thus trek all the way from Calgary not once but twice in a three-month span, to Morenita’s Mexican Restaurant, in Idaho Falls of all places.
Bertha Moreno and daughter Jessica serve up fabulous fare at Morenita’s Mexican Restaurant
Sure, I was headed on to other destinations. But nothing made me happier in 2014 than plunking myself down at a nondescript Morenita table and letting Jessica keep bringing me fantastic plates of inventive Mexican food. Like an unforgettable taco ranchero—an open, crispy corn tortilla piled with sauteed pork loin, salsa fresca and avocado, doused with house-made sauces, all for $2.50.
Traditional tacos and tostadas elevated to star status
Things were going so well, I threw caution to the wind and ordered a sampler bowl of menudo, something I swore I’d never touch again after a rubber-band greasefest with my appalled sisters in some dusty Mexican village. Here, the broth is perfectly seasoned, the little hominy balls a delightful surprise and the, gulp, beef tripe sufficiently tender I might order it again. Just not for a year or two.
Morenita’s Mexican Restaurant
450 Whittier Street, Idaho Falls, Idaho
Monday to Thursday 10 am-9 pm, Friday-Saturday 9:30 am-9 pm, Sunday 9:30 am-8:30 pm
Fantastic, creative, affordable fare at Koi Sushi in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
This is about as incongruous as it gets. A sushi place in a fast-food court, beside a Walmart in the Mexican tourist mecca of Cabo San Lucas.
But *Koi Sushi is by no means generic. In fact, it may be the best, most inventive sushi I’ve ever had. And a growing number of folks agree, some flying in from Los Angeles just for a feed of chef-owner Jose Angel Huerta Ramirez’s fusion take on Japanese classics.
Jose Angel Huerta is the mad genius at Koi Sushi
There is a menu, but it’s best to let Jose come up with what the catches of the day and his imagination dictate. Just sit back and watch a succession of amazing dishes arrive. Like thin strips of wahoo (a fabulous local fish) encircling avocado slices and bits of serrano chile. Or tuna and crab wrapped in a shrimp tempura, providing a contrasting crispness to the raw goodness inside. Or a shrimp roll topped with salmon roe and floating on a cilantro-jalapeno sauce.
This wahoo sashimi plate was to die for
It’s a veritable feast of some six dishes that sets us back only $30 a person, drinks included. Actually, the only thing I’d forsake here is the sake.
An arranged masterpiece
You can sit inside at one of a handful of tables, close to where Jose is conjuring his magic. But there’s something wonderfully discordant about eating this fabulous fare in the mist-sprayed outdoor food court, where Chinese food is being served in styrofoam boxes and a lone, electrified musician is playing Guantanamera.
There’s the sushi spot, at the back of this fast-food court next to a Walmart
Jose was apparently a chef at the upscale Nick-San sushi joint in Cabo. He left to set up his own, affordable shop, where diners unconcerned about the mall surroundings wisely give him all the freedom he desires.
Koi Sushi
Plaza San Lucas, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
Daily noon-9 pm
Marathon Mouth 